Barrels at Curly

Woke up at the buttcrack of dawn to get some sunrise images yesterday, determined to get a gem.  Did get a couple good ones, but mostly left soaked from head to toe due to a rogue wave coming in hot over the cliff.  Turned around just in time to drench my backside with a thick layer of saltwater, and also in time to see Mad and Zara laughing hysterically at me (yes, I'm sure the dog was smiling).  Liked one without the sun best of all...

After a couple morning meetings, i was going to head out and go for a swim for the rest of a beautiful day... got to the top of the hill that overlooks north curly beach and saw a bomb wave peeling cleanly across the beach.  Turned around straight away, got my underwater housing and legged it down to the beach.  Here's one of the bodyboarders under the ocean's storm clouds.

nearly made it...

a little in and out action, check out how beautiful the water is, you can see the light rays hitting the ocean floor!

this guy got shacked every wave, dropped in and charged down the line

quick look inside a barrel

a bit of a heavier lip

slash and burn from behind underwater

end it on my favorite of the day, the infinite green tube.  loved the lines in this one, see where your eyes end up